摘 要：本文主要通過對歷史上有相關記載的以及現當代含有紐襻的服飾的查看與研究，分析歸納出已有紐襻的各種存在形式，并從國內外設計師們對紐襻的設計與運用中總結出一定的規律，最終根據個人對紐襻的理解對其進行設計并運用到服裝上。在古代紐襻常被用作連結左右衣片，是實用性的體現，通過對紐襻的研究，我發現古代服裝中紐襻的形式十分簡單，幾乎都是直角紐襻，直到旗袍出現以后紐襻的形狀才開始有了變化，繼而產生了各式各樣的圖形。而紐襻的形狀和材料以及結構線條排列的變化是人們不斷追求美、創造美的求新求變心理的表現。到現在，紐襻的設計已經不只是局限于圖案形狀的設計了，設計師們更多的是通過對紐襻的大小，顏色，面料以及排列方式的合理把握，綴到服裝上，結合服裝整體的廓形，圖案，線條使之交相呼應。本人通過對紐襻的研究與學習總結出了幾種針對紐襻設計的手法：比如可以用夸張手法將紐襻放大或者縮小，通過一種反常規的形狀大小設計第一時間來捕捉別人的眼球；或者也可以通過反復的手法將同樣形狀的紐襻重復地運用到服裝上起到一個量化的效果，一般在此過程中，用形狀簡單的直角紐襻作為重復地單位比較容易出效果一點；另外也可以通過對比的手法，包括面料的對比和色彩的對比來突出紐襻的設計等。紐襻的作為中國傳統服飾元素的重要組成部分，越來越體現出它的藝術價值和中國傳統文化的博大精深。
關鍵詞：紐襻；形式；研究；設計手法；中國傳統服飾
Abstract：This article on the history of relevant records as well as contemporary clothing with New Zealand's view loop and research analysis concludes there have been various forms of New York loop, and domestic and international designers from the loop on the design and application of New York summarized in a certain law, the final loop of personal understanding of the New Zealand designed and applied to their clothing. New loops are often used in ancient link film about clothes is practical embodiment, loop through the New Zealand research, I found the ancient form of clothing in the New York loop is very simple, almost all of New Zealand loop right angle until the emergence of New York cheongsam loop only began to change shape, giving rise to a wide variety of graphics. The New York loop shape and arrangement of material and structural changes in the line is that people continue to pursue the United States, creating beautiful and innovative ideas of psychological performance. To the present, New Zealand loop design has not only limited to the shape of the design patterns, designers greater New York through the loop on the size, color, fabric and the arrangement of reasonable certainty, decorated to the clothing, the combination of clothing as a whole the profile shape, pattern, lines correspond to the turn. I loop through the Research and Study of New York summed up several New York-loop design for the way: for example, can use hyperbole in New Zealand to enlarge or reduce the loop, through an unconventional shape and size designed to capture the first time other people's eyes ; or can be repeated to the same shape the way the New York loop repeatedly applied to clothing, a quantitative effect on the play in general in this process, using a simple rectangular shape as the repeated unit of New Zealand and loops out the effect a little easier; Another approach can also be compared, including the fabric of the contrast and color contrast to highlight the design of New Zealand loop. New loop as an important element of traditional Chinese clothing part of more and more reflects its artistic value and profound traditional Chinese culture.
Key words: New loop; form; research; design practices; Chinese Traditional Costume
